Ships planning ongoing through the Canal normally stock up with many cartons of Cigarettes for the pure purpose of bribery. Our company had given to us one box of twenty cartons for this reason and these had been delivered in Malta before we set sail for the Canal. But our Captain was wary about giving these out as even before we had got alongside in Port Suez three Cartons had been given to the Pilots who wouldnt leave until they received a gift. So at that rate he was worried that he would not have enough to get through the Canal safely - the reason why the agent got the perfume.

In actual fact the Pilots went overboard in their desperation to get some smokes out of us. We had arranged to pick up the pilot as per usual at the boarding ground before proceeding in to the Port of Suez. Not really a port that needs a Pilot but then I suppose how are the Pilots supposed to get their cut if they don't come onto the vessels. Anyway, we had slowed down and the Pilot Cutter drew up beside our boarding ladder. But he would not come onboard. He shouted up to the crew that he wanted Cigarettes before joining the vessel and after much palaver a carton of 200 was handed down to him. He looked at that carton as if it was 'dirt' and then looked at the Crew and put his fingers up a basic message to state that another carton was required before he would step foot on the vessel. Once again our skipper was pressurized into reducing his precious stock and eventually after this carton was handed down the Pilot clambered up onto our vessel.

But it did not stop there. The Pilot went up to the bridge but basically refused to take charge of the navigation of the vessel. Our skipper increased the speed and pointed the bows towards the Port of Suez whilst the pilot just looked out of the window with his arms crossed and in complete silence. Meanwhile on the back deck the crew where watching the antics of the pilot launch. This boat was racing alongside our vessel occasionally touching our sides with the cutter then bouncing back off in alarming fashion. The driver of the cutter kept his finger on the horn so along with the occasional bang we had this loud and annoying braying noise to cope with. And from the Pilot launch figures kept on emerging (when they thought it safe to do so) and sticking their fingers up and shouting "cigarettes, cigarettes".

The Captain on the bridge was suffering on two scores. He felt obliged to slow down for safety reasons as court enquiries and an Egyptian jail did not paint a nice picture should he smash up the pilot launch. And another reason for slowing down was that he simply did not know which berth to dock at or where to go in the Port of Suez seeing as how the pilot was incommunicado. Well, to cut a long story short the skipper was forced into handing down a third carton of smokes to the desperate bunch in the pilot cutter. He handed them down to a now happy and smiling crew and returned to be greeted by a happy and informative pilot, one who acted as if nothing untoward had occurred and one who directed that ship into port with skill and grace.

If bribes are not given the reverberations are enormous. If the pilot does not receive his gift he will inform the next pilot (more pilots required for the outward journey from the Port of Suez and more still for the Canal Transit). This next pilot will then be extremely annoying in nature like not tuning up or arriving late and not directing the ship as he should do and this will continue down the line. If Health officials palms are not greased problems could be found with he vessel, if the Search Light Company does not receive the gift the cost of fitting tow or more searchlights will be astronomical and the Lifting Device Company will delay you ship for a few days whilst chain blocks and lifting devices of amazing proportions will be fitted. Of course should a carton of Cigarettes pass their way across into the hands of the guy/official hanging around all work lists and requirements will suddenly vanish.

As with any system or clique the size and scale of bribery in Egypt is massive to say the least. And it is an acceptable form or way of life especially for those running the canal. Bribery and palm-greasing is the means for which many a family gain income and manage to survive and without which they would starve. So whether we in the Western World condemn this type of action or not is of no import, we are in their country and so we should accept their values.

The last straw for our Captain was when the Search Light Company man turned up at midnight (with us having been there since midday) and dragged the Captain out of bed to discuss the fitting of the searchlight forward that we were suddenly required to have for the transit regardless of the fact that we had three searchlights of our own and ones that were more powerful than anything they could fit. We had all been up late tidying up the mess that the shopkeepers had left and tying to work out if we had enough food left to get us to the Sri-Lanka at the very least. So by midnight those of us that could were asleep in bed, trying to get a few winks before starting off to join the convoy at 0300hrs.

The noise coming from the corridor woke us all up. Staggering out of bed and out of the door I became witness to a mad and scary Scotsman with untamed hair screaming down the stairs at a visibly frightened Egyptian man. Our Skipper had finally cracked.

The mate sorted the problem out by grappling with the Scary man and pulling him into his cabin probably dowsed him in whisky to calm him down. I went to see the Salesman from the Search Light Company and between us we came to the amicable solution that one carton of cigarettes and our last jar of strawberry jam would negate the requirement for any more searchlights. He went away with his trophies and I returned to bed, whishing that we were through to the other side and on our way.

But to run a Canal is not cheap. Money has to be spent on maintenance and on the large deepening, widening and enlargement projects. As an example, when the Canal was deepened in to nineteen meters in 1980 the final adding up of the project came to US$1.3 billion. Not cheap by any means and in those days well above the income received through dues received. Another great expenditure is the massive Radar and the System of Navigational Aids that ensure the Safety and free flow of vessels in the Canal. The initial high tech system that was installed cost 18 million in 1981. Since then thousands of upgrades and modernizing features have been fitted at great cost to the SCA.

And of course other fees have to be paid out. Least of all of which is the constant maintenance of the banks that is nothing but sand for most of the Canals length. And the constant dredging of the Canals Bottom, the costs of the Tugs that are on constant standby as vessels pass through and etc, etc, etc.

But why is it so important that ships use the Canal? Quite simply to reduce fuel costs for those ships that worry about fuel costs and to reduce travel time for those who worry about getting there quickly! Apart from these two items there is no reason to use the Canal at all but most companies want to be quick and to save on fuel costs so.....! With the Suez Canal in operation the only people using the longer way around by the Cape Horn are those ships too large to fit through the Canal and those with a death wish (like yacht people).

As an example of the usefulness of the Canal: The distance between Jedda Port, Saudi Arabia and Konstaza in the Black Sea via the Cape of Good Hope is 11,771 nautical miles . The Suez Canal route reduces this distance by around 56%. The distance between Tokyo and Rotterdam Port in the Netherlands is reduced by 23% if made via the Suez Canal instead of the Cape of Good Hope. * The Suez Canal transports around 7% of the world sea-borne trade, 25 % of the trade to and from the Red Sea, and the Arabian Gulf, 20% of the trade to and from India, and South-East Asia, as well as 29% of the trade to and from the Far East.

Ships cannot just turn up at the Canal entrance, pay a man in the glass booth and then saunter on through. There is a large system and network of agencies and Government Bodies who control the arrangement of the Convoys and these must be strictly adhered to should one wish to sail through on time and with little hassle. To book a place on a convoy arrival times of the vessel must be sent 5 days prior to the event taking place.

There are three convoys daily passing through the Canal. There are two Convoys going Southbound (SB) and only one Convoy going Northbound (NB). The SB convoys are at 0100 and at 0700 hrs and the NB convoy is at 0500hrs. Vessels must arrive at a minimum of four hours before the departure time of the Convoy.

As the typical large Tanker, Bulk carrier or Dangerous Cargo Vessel going southbound is empty of cargo the speed maintained is around 10knots (14km/hr). Northbound the loaded Tankers, Bulk Carriers and the Dangerous Cargo Vessels (LPG/LNG) are required to transit at a slower speed, usually 8-9 Knots.

Once the SCA has a ships arrival time, ships particulars and data a place in the convoy will be issued to the Master. Faster and more maneuverable vessels will be placed at the front of the convoy with those more liable to breakdown, with dangerous cargoes onboard or be unable to maintain speed will be placed at the rear. Of course should a fine War Ship or Aircraft carrier happen to be in your convoy they will get the number one spot - especially if it is an American one. Many personally would prefer if they had the rear spot but .............!

A place in the convoy, a starting time for off and a pilot is all that is required. The Pilot Station will arrange the pilots and the Mooring Boat Company will arrange the Boatman to come onboard and the Searchlight Company will arrange for the fitting of a forward reaching searchlight.
 

From Port Said the Canal extends in a near vertical line (as on a map) southward till it reaches the top of the Red Sea and the to official end of the Canal Zone of Port Suez. The Canal traverses the sands through the eastern edge of the salt-marsh area of Lake Manzala, over the red dessert soils of the Isthmus to reach the midpoint at the Northern edge of Lake Timsah. Continuing south it passes through Lake Timsah where the large town of Ismailia is situated, then on through the Great and Little Bitter Lakes (now a single lake) and southwards again past the city of Suez to reach the Gulf of Suez at Port Taufiq.

Most of the Canals length is single lane, with a maximum width of 365 meters or between the buoys that mark safe navigation of only 205 meters. So from Port Said to Ismailia there is nearly 70km to transit and only sand banks closing in on the vessels. From Ismailia to Port Taufiq there is another 83km to go but this is broken up by the 30km length of the Great and Little Bitter Lakes (which should now be called the Normal Bitter Lake seeing as how they are connected and are one).

The total combined length of the Canal where ships can pass by in opposite directions is 68km but as a general rule of thumb safety comes first as it should do. The lone Convoy going North typically steams right on through from one end to the other undisturbed and free to move, and depending on the lead vessels speed. But the Southbound Convoys are responsible for clearing the way for the NB Convoy. This is typically done by anchoring the first SB convoy in the Bitter Lakes and the second Convoy passes in the twin passage named the El Ballah pass. This is approximately one third of the distance from Port Said to the other end.

Setting off and settled into your place in the convoy it is time to look outwards. And you will see sand and more sand. Read all about "sand" in a later article!

It is often written in books that the Suez Canal is a hive of activity but in reality there is just sand and lots of it. The occasional Electricity Pylon will break the monotony, a train may race alongside for a little while before disappearing in a cloud of black smoke and the newly built Suspension Bridge across the Canal may give you moment to wonder why there are no cars using it (the tolls imposed are too expensive).

From the Anchorage to the Southern entrance there is a distance of 15km to cover. And at the other end from the lighted buoy to the entrance of the Canal in Port Said is a distance of 22.5km. Enough time to enjoy the sea before getting sand up your nose.

As an interesting aside: Many holiday makers from Europe and America look forwards to and dream about a holiday with sun, sea and sand! And that is what the Suez Canal has and lots of. The water in the Canal is salt water, there is enough sand to keep every child in the world in sand castles for years to come and the sun beats down without fail.

Maybe worth considering!